Most disposal problems are a jam or a tripped reset button. No plumber needed for either.
A hum without spinning means the motor has power but something, often a bone, pit or utensil, is wedged against the grinding plate. Difficulty: Level 1: First Wins. Plan on 10 to 20 min.
Safety: Turn the disposal off at the switch and unplug it under the sink, or turn off its breaker, before you start.
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Turn the disposal off at the switch and unplug it under the sink, or turn off its breaker, before you start.
Find the hex socket in the center of the disposal's underside.
Insert the disposal wrench (often 1/4-inch hex) and work it back and forth until it turns freely all the way around.
Look inside with a flashlight. Pull out anything stuck with tongs or pliers, never your fingers.
Press the red reset button on the bottom, restore power, run cold water and turn it on.
When a disposal does nothing at all, its overload protector has usually tripped, or it isn't getting power from the switch, plug or breaker. Difficulty: Level 1: First Wins. Plan on 10 to 20 min.
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Press the red reset button on the bottom of the unit. If it was tripped, it will click.
Make sure it's plugged in, then check the breaker and any GFCI outlet that feeds it.
Try it again with cold water running.
Leaks at the top come from the sink flange, where mounting bolts loosen or the putty seal dries out. Difficulty: Level 1: First Wins. Plan on 10 to 20 min.
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The flange's mounting bolts may have loosened. Tighten them evenly from below.
If it still leaks, the putty seal under the flange has failed. Resealing means dropping the disposal and redoing the flange, which is a Level 2 to 3 job.
Side leaks usually come from a loose clamp on the dishwasher hose or a loose slip nut on the drain pipe. Difficulty: Level 1: First Wins. Plan on 10 to 20 min.
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Tighten the hose clamp on the dishwasher hose, or the slip nut on the drain pipe.
Replace a cracked hose or a worn gasket if tightening doesn't stop it.
A disposal that leaks from the bottom, or still hums or stays dead after a reset and a freed jam, usually has a failed seal or motor.
Replacing one involves plumbing and electrical connections. It's a Level 3 job, or call a plumber.